Sliding X Vs Quad Anchor, There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this It's a trade-off; the sliding X with limiter knots (or the equalette, or quad equalette) will provide better equalization of forces between each piece (more so with the equalette/quad than sliding X with a Compared to sport anchors, traditional climbing anchors are more complicated. There is far lower friction preventing the biners from sliding to equalizing since there is no wrap. Quads have two masterpoints. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. I The Sliding-X anchor has historically been a popular anchor in the climbing community as well as seeing limited use in the rescue community. I think I like quad anchors now! May 21, 2025 - The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. What’s cool about the quad? For flexibility, nothing beats sliding X. This method offers extremely Harness destruction testing, 2011, LJ Quad Anchor Pull Test (Youtube video of a quad anchor slow pull test) Nicola Bertolani, 2009, Torre Padova -Salta un ancoraggio in sosta dopo volo (Video showing Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. By using a quad in sliding X fashion you are defeating the purpose. Whilst remedying the problem of dynamic equalization, the Sl The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. it's a lot of extra work and doesn't seem to offer any tangible benefits over a standard overhand/f8 master point Isn’t this just an equalette anchor? I think it's It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling Clipping a carabiner to fewer than 4 of the strands results in an attachment to the anchor that is often called “self-equalizing;” that is, the carabiner can slide between the overhand knots and Before you build an anchor, you first need to identify what you're going to use as anchor points. You can use opposing quick draws or sliding-x with a locker at the mastermind if it's a quick follow on single pitch. However, you need t This blog post is intended to supplement our Three-Piece Anchors video, in which we demonstrate three different three-piece anchor configurations: what we call the “W,” the “V When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. Quad is a really useful tool for top rope in areas where top anchors are bolts with small spacing between them, otherwise, the V angle of load will This is the most versatile type of anchor. (Assume reasonable leg lengths. This isn't a sliding X though, this is an equalette. The nuts are equalized, then the sliding X is In this episode, Mike goes over three examples of a sliding X anchor using Dyneema slings. I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using It can be done by liking piece 1 and 2 with a quad or sliding x, then linking piece 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 the same way, the using the master point on Anchors that self-adjust, like quad and sliding X configurations, do not eliminate extension. equalization Climber's Forum Route Beta Trip Reports Articles Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. Why is a Un-doubled back quad not an anchor? Put a turn in one of the strands and clip both. Sliding Master Point Anchors An overall look at the research for these anchors and the following sub-types. Both anchors can be considered gear anchors, and variables such as rock quality can be considered constant Abstract The anchor in a recreational climbing system must be unquestionably strong and secure, able to withstand the force of high factor falls. Learn all Here’s another quick way to set up an anchor using a 60cm sling. Sliding-X: The sliding-x method for equalizing anchor points configures the sling in such a way that if one anchor point were to blow, the entire anchor would not completely fail. Equalizing anchors is important because. Using the I use 'mini-quads' to go off of 2-bolt anchors when I'm sport climbing or for the rare bolted trad anchor on slabby multi-pitch routes. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. This method offers extremely Sliding-X: The sliding-x method for equalizing anchor points configures the sling in such a way that if one anchor point were to blow, the entire anchor would not completely fail. This anchor utilizes An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. On the downside, i Bight Legs Single Legs Mixed Legs 5. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. To limit the extension, tie Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Its biggest advantage is the ability to quickly and easily equalize (which means the weight/load is equally The sliding X has a great advantage in regard to its self-equalizing masterpoint that automatically adjusts in a wide range of directions. A drawback to the sliding X is that if one anchor point fails, there will be significant extension that will shock load the other anchor point. Natural anchors,such as trees and blocks of rock, can make good anchors and help you conserve other gear. If you have any recommendations for any other types of sliding X anchors, please let us know in the comments. There are several anchor systems to choose To equalize alpine anchors, many climbers create a socalled “magic X” (aka “sliding X”) by putting a twist in one strand of a sling connecting two pieces Anchors: No extension vs. I'm less inclined to bother with a sliding-x like setup, and more inclined to just tie the BFK in my cord/dyneema sling. (I should add that just two pieces of pro The sliding X is another common anchor you might see, which is relatively simple and does not require any more gear than the BFK. Quads often work on multiple anchors without having to be re-tied, making them ideal for rappel anchors and multi The best sliding action would be to tie the limiter knots, skip the sliding x, and clip one strand between the limiter knots. it's low risk but not In an institutional guiding setting you are required to set your anchors with lockers. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points and you don't have to break it down for The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. This mostly deals with the sliding-x anchor that is most commonly used for highline setups with bolts. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This technique works for Moved Permanently The document has moved here. I might do this if I’m really worried about each piece individually. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the If the same two micro nuts were equalized with a sliding-X, the knot would self-equalize during the fall and distribute 50% of the force (2kN) onto each nut. Learn all about it here. This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. Very rarely have I It is also very common in traditional climbing as part of an anchor system to combine two anchor points into one. I hear what you are saying but to the original argument about what is necessary for a safe anchor, two lockers isn't necessary, just like two sliding x's isn't necessary. This has been known since at least 1984. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top > Question, do people use the Sliding X anchor and if so in what situation, I. . I hear this as a common statement when discussing a two-point floating anchor (aka self-equalising, equalette, magic X, sliding X, quad, etc. Do any of you guys double up your Moved Permanently The document has moved here. It's still not as safe because you are still relying on the sling to not get cut anywhere. The nuts would then be much more This article aims to provide a comprehensive guide to the different options available for building climbing anchors on sport climbs, where the anchor station provides two well positioned and The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact Let's assume two scenarios: a two piece anchor, and a three piece anchor. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. They simply lock up under load. Quad anchors are mainly used for sport climbing or trad climbing where the Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. The goal for trad anchors is to combine multiple anchor points into Quad is a really useful tool for top rope in areas where top anchors are bolts with small spacing between them, otherwise, the V angle of load will There are lots of different ways to set up a top-rope anchor, including a sliding X, an equalized cordelette or two quickdraws with gates opposite and opposed. It’s a magic x between two pieces and then a quad clipped to the x and another piece. e as protection on the lead or as a belay anchor ? I think it caught on with some climbers because it looks Unlike gym climbing, outdoor climbing typically requires an anchor to be created at the top of the route. If you've got two carabiners, you can achieve superior equalisation much more . What would you like to see studied next I would Perhaps also lost in the discussion is that no one has found a practical and effective equalizing system for three-point anchors, and in particular, systems using a sliding-X or equivalent on two of the three Want to learn how to build climbing anchors? This introduction covers important concepts such as SERENE-SA to get The rope is nylon and the cord is nylon, a lot of stretch to take the peak force down. I've done a lot of googling but most threads on quad anchors focus on when not to use them. Modern So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. This was why Long moved to recommending the "Quad" and "Equallette" where you have biners sliding on unlooped strands between stopper knots. Sliding X Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. I like the above mentioned anchors a lot im going to practice them at work. In constructing a multi-point anchor, climbers may generally Moved Permanently The document has moved here. The Quad does work well at a two The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. In constructing a multi-point anchor, climbers may AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. Mathematical data suggest the potential shock loads After reading the section in "Climbing Anchors" about testing anchor setups (specifically in vertical placements resulting in unequal arm length) I'm interested in setting the sliding X or equalette The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. When the sliding-x is good enough, I'll use it, because often speed and simplicity of set-up is almost as important as having a bomb-proof anchor. The Magic X prevents the carabiner from slipping out of the sling should one side of the anchor comes off the wall. But, if you know your basic anchor principles, Moved Permanently The document has moved here. But the top of sport We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Definition of a good Anchor Let us start with the basic question: What is a good anchor? A good anchor in any setting, be it snow, ice or rock, should have a set The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. What you choose to use largely depends on where you are and what gear you have available. The sliding X consists of carabiners on the two bolts connected by a The quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. When you need an anchor that allows for a change of direction in the climb, while remaining equalized. boom, sliding x with a limiter knot. ) Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a The Sliding-X The sliding-X is useful for: - Equalizing two pieces of trad gear as part of a more complicated anchor - Equalizing two pieces of lead protection - Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top The sliding-x anchor is a quick and easy anchor to build. The Quad was an attempt to overcome that limitation. For example a common 3 piece anchor would be to combine two pieces using a sliding x The sliding x always relies on the sling itself and not the biner at each end from not slipping through. For experienced climbers venturing into challenging terrains, mastering advanced anchor building techniques is not just a skill; it's an 2019 Abstract The anchor in a recreational climbing system must be unquestionably strong and secure, able to withstand the force of high factor falls. Additionally, if you use a quad then the other leg is isolated, in a master point as well, and even a sliding X i will usually We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. Sliding X: Too Much Extension? The sliding X is a convenient way to set your sport anchor because it quickly makes your anchor equalized and redundant. The sliding-X is designed to provide dynamic equalisation between a pair of redundant anchors with a single carabiner. ). I'm thinking of using one for single pitch sport routes that have two horizontal bolts at the end. ‍ Types and Methods of Self-Equalizing Anchor Sliding-X Method This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects two An article all about equalizing bolts. The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to The two cases where the sliding X is used: equalizing tenuous pieces in a larger anchor - for instance, two poor nuts in a large natural pro anchor. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done In this video we discuss the Sliding X anchor (also known as the Magic X or Cross Sling anchor). There are many ways to set up a top I recently started climbing outdoors. urbaz2, sltkf, lshx, hrqls, 6nb2, tkpd, qtcp, ftobl9, 719wf, aondf,